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Bicycle Tour Adventure #39: South Tyrol, Italy, Day 13

Sunday Morning: Early Breakfast at the German Apfel Farm in Vilpian, Italy (South Tyrol)
A nice Austrian Breakfast; most of it is gone. Tomatoes from the field.
Above Left: A nice Austrian Breakfast; most of it is gone.

Above Right: Tomatoes from the field. There were apples too. Oh so fresh and good, one could smell it before it arrived to the mouth.



Lana (Ray and Letizia's Home): Sunday Morning;
Bike Tour, Loop: Lana - Bozen/Bolzano - Kalterer See
(Cauldron Lake) - Lana
The Bee (da Vinci Tandem). Ray's Recumbent (his slow one).
Above Left: The Bee (da Vinci Tandem + Terry).

Above Right: Ray's Recumbent (his slow one). Ray's fast recumbent has a Wind Shield.

Letizia is taking a picture of us. Ray F on the recumbent; Dennis and Terry Struck on the tandem.
Above Left: Letizia is taking a picture of us. She looks at me and says don't you need pant leg straps? All of a sudden I realize that I do need leg straps, and a mirror, and sun glasses, all of which are together in a little carry case stored in the pannier - Man am I out of bike touring rhythm. We take another 5 minutes to watch Dennis finish getting dressed - Arh arh.

Above Right: Ray F on the recumbent; Dennis and Terry Struck on the tandem; Picture by Letizia.

Dennis and Terry Struck on the Bee (da Vince Tandem). We're on the road. This is Ray.
Above Left: Dennis and Terry Struck on the Bee (da Vince Tandem), picture by Letizia.

Above Right: We're on the road. This is Ray. Long shadows still. It takes about twenty minutes to get used to one another. We've both been independent riders for a while, it does not take long to remember to use stop, slowing, and warning signals.

We are going to follow the Adige River downstream. There is a wonderful bike trail between the rail road tracks and the river. There are just a few pedestrians near towns or villages (just like in the USA) but there are a lot more serious road bikers in groups than found in the USA. We get stares from almost everyone, but Ray gets more attention. His recumbent setup is very sleek looking, almost like Easy Rider.
Electric Train. Cyclists out for a ride.
Above Left: Electric Train.

Above Right: Cyclists out for a ride.

Rails, Ray, and Adige River. View of mountains across the Adige River.
Above Left: Rails, Ray, and River.

Above Right: View of mountains across the Adige River.

On the river trail to Bozen (southeast direction). Dennis and Terry Struck and the Bee on the Adige River.
Above Left: On the river trail to Bozen (southeast direction).

Above Right: Dennis and Terry and the Bee on the Adige River.

Dennis and Terry Struck on the Adige (South Tyrol, Italy). Dennis and Terry Struck on the Adige (South Tyrol, Italy).
Above: A break on the Adige.

Apfel Orchard and Rest Area. Apfel Orchard and Rest Area.
Above: Apfel Orchard and Rest Area.

Ray and Terry share something humorous. We're in Apple Country; Castle on the ridgeline.
Above Left: Ray and Terry share something humorous - cool bikes.

Above Right: We're in Apple Country; Castle on the ridgeline.

Farm to Market Road in Grape Vine and Wine Country. Farm to Market Road in Grape Vine and Wine Country.
Above: Farm to Market Road in Grape Vine and Wine Country.

Vineyards reach the city limit. bright digital numbers tell how many parking spaces are available.
Above Left: Vineyards reach the city limit, which is always a good indicator of how important the wine industry is or how good the wine is of that area.

Above Right: The bright digital numbers tell how many parking spaces are available at each Parking Lot - This being Sunday morning, there are plenty of spaces available in the down town parking areas.

We've entered Bozen/Bolzano. Bozen/Bolzano Road signs.
Above Left: We've entered Bozen/Bolzano.

The German Language is the core language of Austria (Österreich). South Tyrol, being a former Austrian State, is an area where only German was spoken at the end of WWI when Südtirol was ceded to Italy. Click for Details. In the 1960s-70s the International Court of Justice in The Hague decreed that both languages (and cultures) had to be accepted. The result is that, the German Word and Italian Word must both listed on road signs (and in government documents), for example Bozen/Bolzano. The order of the German and Italian word listing, seems to be mixed.
Above Right: Road signs; we're turning to the Zentrum.

Bozen/Bolzano Road signs. Bike Lane, in Bozen.
Above Left: Same set of signs.

Above Right: Bike Lane, in town, got to watch out for unaware pedestrians.

Passing through Bozen. Tyrol Annexation Victory Monument.
Above Left: Passing through Bozen.

Above Right: This is the 'Tyrol Annexation Victory Monument', discussed on the previous web page that stirs up the ire of the local, formerly Austrian, residents. Benito Mussolini had the monument made, supposedly to celebrate the unification if Italy but most people believe it was just a fascist monument made for himself; even the Soldier's Heads on the side of the monument are said to look like Mussolini. The monument is always under attack; even here it is under renovation from a previous destruction attempt.

Bozen City Bridge over the Adige. Bozen City Bridge over the Adige, other side.
Above Left: Bozen City Bridge over the Adige [troubled waters].

Above Right: Same bridge, other side.

We are passing by the downtown museum that has held the Iceman. We are passing by the downtown museum that has held the Iceman.
Above: We are passing by the downtown South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology that has held the Iceman discovered in the high Alps just above the city of Meran/Merano. The Iceman is featured in two articles of the National Geographic magazine, July of 2007 (Discovery) and the November of 2011 (Autopsy). The Iceman, originally believed to have died from a running fight, had old battle wounds and he even had an early kind of Lyme Disease. But most interestingly, the Iceman died almost immediately after eating a big meal. It is not known if he fell and suffered a blow to the head or if the blow to the head was a coup de grâce blow.

Bozen's main Promenade. Bozen's main Promenade.
Above: Bozen's main Promenade.

Heiße (hot) Schokolade. Milchkaffee (aka, Milch Kaffee, Milch Kafé, and Milchkafe). Braun-Zucker dissolving.
Above: We stop for a break in a Café run by a lady from Thailand or Burma who speaks English and German very well. L-R: Heiße (hot) Schokolade, Milchkaffee (aka, Milch Kaffee, Milch Kafé, and Milchkafe), and Braun-Zucker dissolving.

Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade. Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade.
Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade. Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade.
Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade. The only Public Telephone System that we saw on our entire tour.
Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade. Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade.
Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade. Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade.
Bozen/Bolzano's main shopping Promenade. The BAS Democrazia movement is alive and well in Bozen.
Above Left: One of a few Platz (Plazas) that we pass by.

Above Right: The BAS Democrazia movement is alive and well in Bozen - No one is alarmed, worried, making an effort to call the polizia, or to take down the protest symbol.

My favorite travel partner, Terry Struck, downtown Bozen.
Above: My favorite travel partner, downtown Bozen.

A beautiful dwelling on the Promenade. Walther von der Vogelweide.
Above Left: A beautiful dwelling on the Promenade.

Above Right: Walther von der Vogelweide (c 1170 - c 1230): He was the most celebrated of the Middle High German lyric poets, a singer, a knight who probably earned his rank in battle (versus birthright) more than once, who had no land to his name, who was very opinionated, a sincere Catholic who practiced what was preached, pro German in a time when lands changed hands and countries frequently, who supported various noblemen (some of whom died for various causes [Land Battles, Crusade, ..]) in their rise to power (Frederick II was one of the last supported), who was documented as given a Diamond by the Emperor and a Fur Coat by a Bishop.

He seemed to float through history being at the right place or history changing event at the right time, frequently. He was popular and these are just the highlights - His story is a lifetime Movie and/or Novel waiting to happen. In his later years, the Emperor gave him a small fiefdom in Franconia and he may have been a tutor to the Emperor's son Henry VII (this is disputed but he could have possibly been like an Uncle figure). [Wikipedia] - Composite Foto by Dennis.

Statue of Walther von der Vogelweide on the main platz. Terry and Ray on the main platz.
Above Left: Statue of Walther von der Vogelweide on the main platz.

Above Right: Terry and Ray. Immediate questions about his bike.

People are checking out the da Vinci Tandem.
Above: A less secure husband would be worried about what everyone is looking - They are checking out the da Vinci Tandem. All of the Italians like the name 'da Vinci' on an American made machine. The bottom of the statue of Walther von der Vogelweide is at the pictures upper-right corner

Hibiscus blooming; 2 Oktober 2011. Hibiscus blooming; 2 Oktober 2011.
Above: Hibiscus blooming at the foot of the Statue of Walther von der Vogelweide; the date is 2 Oktober 2011 - My kind of place - It just snowed at our Colorado Home.

Duomo di Bolzano / Kathedrale von Bozen. Duomo di Bolzano / Kathedrale von Bozen.
Above: Duomo di Bolzano / Kathedrale von Bozen - Nice roof tile work - Same Plaza.

Abtei-Straße (Abbey-Road). Keep on Biking.
Above Left: Abtei-Straße (Abbey-Road, humor from Dennis).

Above Right: Keep on Biking.

Art in another platz. Leaving urban Bozen for the burbs.
Above Left: Art in another platz.

Above Right: Leaving urban Bozen for the burbs (south). We probably have about 12-13 kilometers to our turnoff for the Kalterer See. Do note that the Adige River water is glacial silt and that in Bozen/Bolzano, two more rivers have merged into the Adige.

Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling an Apfel Orchard, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Paralleling an Apfel Orchard, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Crossing the Adige River from the west bank to the east bank.
Above Left: Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.

Above Right: Crossing the Adige River from the west bank to the east bank. We will cross one more time in another kilometer or so.

A telephoto view up the river; that is Bozen/Bolzano over the trees. Heading south in rich farm land; castle on the hill top.
Above Left: A telephoto view up the river; that is Bozen/Bolzano over the trees, in the valley (a north view).

Above Right: Heading south in rich farm land; castle on the hill top.

Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano. Paralleling the Adige River, South of Bozen/Bolzano.
Apfel Orchard, trees raised like grape vines. Crossing the Adige River and heading west for the resort on the Kalterer See.
Above Left: Apfel Orchard, trees raised like grape vines.

Above Right: Here, we are crossing the Adige River and heading west for 1-2 K until we reach the resort on the Kalterer See (for a travel snack break).

Apple Orchard; overhead retractable screens. Apple Orchard; overhead retractable screens.
Above: Apple Orchard; overhead retractable screens.

Guarded Military Arsenal. Guarded Military Arsenal.
Above Left: Guarded Military Arsenal.

Above Right: Arsenal fencing on the right side.

First peak at the Kalterer See / Lago di Cadera / Cauldron Lake. Via Campi al Lago.
Above Left: First peak at the Kalterer See / Lago di Cadera / Cauldron Lake.

Above Right: Via Campi al Lago.

Restaurant am See Park Hotel. Restaurant am See Park Hotel.
Above: Restaurant am See Park Hotel.

A view uphill from Restaurant am See Park Hotel. Two of the coolest bikes in the world.
Above Left: A view uphill from Restaurant am See Park Hotel.

Above Right: Two of the coolest bikes in the world.

What people do at sunny lake resorts. Ray is helping Terry read German.
Above Left: What people do at sunny lake resorts.

Above Right: Ray is helping Terry read German.

The Bee is enjoying life. The climb is behind us and grapes are in front of us.
Above Left: The Bee is enjoying life. It doesn't know that it is about to climb a 40° slope for about 40 meters.

Above Right: The climb is behind us and grapes are in front of us; we're about to be riding though vineyards.

Leaving Pfatten, Entering Vadena. the town of San Giuseppe al Lago is on the hillside.
Above Left: Leaving Pfatten, Entering Vadena - It's news to us.

Above Right: Ray is leading (always) and the town of San Giuseppe al Lago is on the hillside ahead.

Some of the last views of the lake. Some of the last views of the lake.
Above: Some of the last views of the lake.

Weiß/Bianco Grapes. Weiß/Bianco Grapes.
Above: Weiß/Bianco/White Grapes.

Grape vine tunnel. Grape vine roof.
Above: Grape vine tunnel and roof.

Heavily laden Red/Rosso/Rot Wine Grape Vines. Heavily laden Red/Rosso/Rot Wine Grape Vines.
Above: Heavily laden Red/Rosso/Rot Wine Grape Vines (even though the actual color is Blau/Blue/Blu).

Picked Vines showing Fall Colors. San Giuseppe al Lago .
Above Left: Picked Vines showing Fall Colors, not quite ready for trimming yet.

Above Right: San Giuseppe al Lago.

Strada del Vino. Strada del Vino.
Above: Strada del Vino.

Strada shadow, Dennis holding a camera. Strada del Vino.
A break next to a small shrine to Jesus. A break next to a small shrine to Jesus.
Above: A break next to a small shrine to Jesus. In our international travels we have come across queries as to why someone would display torture in a home that should have love and laughter. It is a Good Question with a Complicated Answer.

Vineyard Pose. We're on narrow back roads.
Above Left: Vineyard Pose.

Above Right: A little too close to Ray: We are now in new terrain; we're on narrow back roads and will eventually find an old rail road bed converted to a bike and hike trail.

Old Advertisment. Trail Signs.
Trail Signs. Trail Signs.
Dennis and Terry Struck are next to an Austrian Locomotive.
Above: Dennis and Terry Struck are next to the Austrian Locomotive that worked this old line. There is a museum around the corner (Bahnhof Stazione).

We're moving downhill, the tandem riders have to watch their speed. We're moving downhill, the tandem riders have to watch their speed.
Above: We're moving downhill, the tandem riders have to watch their speed and brake more than solo cyclists.

Apple Orchards alone the trail. an accidentally blurred picture that looks interesting.
Above Left: Apple Orchards alone the trail.

Above Right: This is NOT photo-shopped, it is an accidentally blurred picture that looks interesting.

We started in the morning with long shadows and now it is early evening and the shadows are getting longer. Old train tunnel and it is lighted.
Above Left: We started in the morning with long shadows and now it is early evening and the shadows are getting longer as the sun is now on the western side of the sky (we are heading north but looking east).

Above Right: Old train tunnel and it is lighted.

Reinhold Messner Mountain Museum. Reinhold Messner Mountain Museum.
Above: This is the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM - Original) which is located here in these pictures in Castle Sigmundskron (southeast of Bolzano). There are 4 or 5 other MMM museums around the world.

Reinhold Messner (born September 17, 1944) is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 'whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history.' He has climbed 18 mountains over 8,000 meters including Everest (twice) and K2. [Wikipedia]

This is all knowledge that Ray shares with us. Is this all very cool!
Old railroad bridge used for Bikes and Hikes. We are slowly changing course from the old rail road bed to Farm-Market Roads.
Above Left: Old railroad bridge used for Bikes and Hikes (and a couple of strategically concealed pipelines).

Above Right: We are slowly changing course from the old rail road bed to Farm-Market Roads and we are entering the valley that leads to Lana, so our general direction is northwest but will vary between West and North. We are also shifting from hillside vineyards to the valley floor and mostly apple orchards.

Another Castle. Apple Processing Plant.
Above Left: Another Castle.

Above Right: Apple Processing Plant: Each of those small green boxes is about the size of a small pickup truck's bed.

 Rail Road Tracks. Look at the size of the Apple Processing Plant.
Above Left: Crossing the Rail Road Tracks and about to ride parallel to the Adige River for a little ways.

Above Right: A picture looking back at the size of the Apple Processing Plant; look at the green box mountain.

Castle and Defensive Position for the Valley. Pedestrian and Bicycle Bridge.
Above Left: Castle and Defensive Position for the Valley.

Above Right: The Pedestrian and Bicycle Bridge that brings us back to the west side of the Adige River and valley highway.

Apple Orchard Valley of the Adige River. Apple Orchard Valley of the Adige River.
We share the road. Apple Orchard Valley of the Adige River.
One loaded green apple box.
Above: One loaded green apple box.

Old Barn. Old Barn.
Above: Old Barn and look at the craftsmanship detail of the upper rafter supports and struts.

Apple Orchard Country. Commercial Fish Farm.
The Duke's house. Entering the outskirts of Lana.
Above Left: The Duke's current estate and old castle. We also passed by the golf course that Ray Managed.

Above Right: We are entering the outskirts of Lana from the mountain side of the valley. It is getting more and more difficult to see sunlight because the sun continues to set and it is noteworthy that we have been biking a long time today.

Entering the outskirts of Lana. Entering the outskirts of Lana.
Above: Entering the outskirts of Lana.

A little wood supply for winter. Apple orchard estate.
Above Left: A little wood supply for winter.

Above Right: Apple orchard estate.

Lana. The main Promenade of Lana.
Above Left: Lana.

Above Right: The main Promenade of Lana. The streets have something that I have never seen before, a picture of various people who are famous from activities like Movie Acting to activities like Human Rights Activism. BUT the picture is formed by writing their biography and highlighting or dimming the font characters and changing the foreground and background Black and White color tone - See the following pictures:

Elizabeth Taylor. Martin Luther King.
Above Left: Elizabeth Taylor.

Above Right: Martin Luther King.

Ai Wei Wei: Chinese Human Rights Activist. Viewing West, further up the Lana Town's Promenade.
Above Left: Ai Wei Wei (Chinese Human Rights Activist - I think in detainment at the moment).

Above Right: Viewing West, further up the Lana Town's Promenade.

It is more or less downhill to Ray's House. We park the bikes and thank Ray for the Great Tour.
Above Left: I know this place. It is more or less downhill to Ray's House with a couple of circles (round-abouts).

Above Right: We park the bikes and thank Ray for the Great Tour of the Adige River and then discuss Dinner Plans - We are driving to our Pension, showering and changing and coming right back. It takes about 45 minutes.



Downtown Lana: Evening Dinner
Sealed and temperature controlled Fermenting Vats. Distillery Operation.
We are eating Dinner at the Cantina Pfefferlechner family restaurant with Ray and Letizia. The German word Pfeffer means Pepper or More Pepper in English (and that is the end of my German understanding). The Pfefferlehenhof in Mitterlana History goes back to 1297 (See History).

The restaurant is only open seasonally and it is part of a working farm, in fact part of the ambiance is that one can see farm animals through sealed glass windows from the restaurant. There is no limit to farm character and farm humor in its operation. They make/brew Bier here and they make/distil schnapps here. The operation also sells locally produced wines (if I understand what I saw correctly). The restaurant has an open friendly feel that emanates directly from the owners, who happen to be friends of Ray and Letizia.

Above Left: Sealed and temperature controlled Fermenting Vats.

Above Right: Distillery Operation.

Small Kegs of Bier for Sale. Farm Humor.
Above Left: Small Kegs of Bier for Sale.

Above Right: Farm Humor.

Ray is entering another dinning room. A dinning room.
Above Left: Ray is entering another dining room. Note that in the olden days, people were shorter and so were doorways.

Above Right: A dining room.

Bier, Wein, and Wasser. Anti Pasta.
Above Left: Bier, Wein, and Wasser.

Above Right: Anti Pasta (different cheeses, sausage and smoked ham).

Cheese Dip, Cheese, and Potatoes. Opposite table and wall.
Above Left: Cheese Dip, Cheese, and Potatoes.

Above Right: Opposite table and wall.

Ray and Letizia.
Above: Ray and Letizia.

Miniature Horses in the Barn.
Above: Miniature Horses in the Barn.

Farm and Restaurant Ambiance. Farm and Restaurant Ambiance.
Above: Farm and Restaurant Ambiance.


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