• Weather: Sunny Days (70-75F/20-22C) and just reaching Freezing at Night; Clear to partly cloudy most of the time.
• We saw Elk, Deer, Turkey, Quail, a Horned Lizard, Bees, Butterflies, and Hummingbirds. After the first night, we heard Coyotes at night.
• Plan: Travel 45-50 miles a day. Actual: Day 1 - 22.6 miles, Day 2 - 25.6 miles. We were not traveling as far as we usually travel per day, in fact, we were traveling half as far as usual.
• NO cell phone reception (for the entire route).
• Two Stove Canisters Failed, One Burner Failed.
• We brought HD Sub-Zero F Sleeping Bags (April in NM can be 'Risky' - We did NOT need the HD sleeping bags).
• 2 Days into our 4 Day Travel-Leg Supply, we realized that we were going to run out of food before reaching the end of our planned Travel-Leg (Pie Town, NM).
• We had to go back to our Transportation Vehicle (which had another 3 Day Food Supply, which was all that we needed). We biked backwards in one day after failing to catch a ride hitchhiking).
• No bicycle flat tires. One Transport Vehicle flat tire. (easily replaced, we carry 2 spare tires now).

• Day 1:
• The first 13-14 miles of dirt road had just received a 1 to 2 inch layer of .75 to 1.5 inch gravel. This made pedaling very inefficient as our rear wheel spun too often (almost to the point of purposefully trying to discourage bicycle travel). Motor vehicles do not need as much gravel as was dumped on that road.
• The next 3-4 miles had spots of 40-50 yards of fresh gravel, good for motorized vehicles and not good for self propelled vehicles.
• On many uphill segments, we had to push the bike for 40 and 50 yard segments because of lack of rear wheel traction, especially for the first two uphill miles.
• On most downhill road segments, we had to travel very slowly due to brake and steering control safety issues (because of the gravel).
• Twice, I saw the tracks of bicycles that lost control while trying to steer at the side of the hard pack, where the gravel bed ended and the soft dirt shoulders began.
• We lost an empty water bottle over rough terrain (it bounced out of our trailer, a first). This little incident set off a wonderful cascade of future events.
• Our plastic rear wheel's chain-on-spoke protector shattered while biking over rough terrain. We just pulled it off and packed out the pieces.
• Two guys, Bob and Jim of Silver City (our ages), caught up to us in their Toyota 4x4 all terrain truck and they had found and returned our water bottle. We thanked them, joked a little, discussed the road ahead, and they let us know that we were not going to make it to the Beaverhead Work Center in 1 day (they were right).
• That was the only day that we saw pockets of water in creek beds. After Black Canyon (where we spent the night), there was only one water source (Wall Creek) between Black Canyon and the Beaverhead Work Center (26 miles away). The next ground water source was not for over 100 miles, such that one must learn how to obtain water from cattle water tanks (or die of thirst).
• Night 1:
• Our Primary Burner Malfunctioned. We do not know what happened, we were bringing water to a boil and when we got to the stove the Piezo Spark Assembly's Plastic Button had melted and the built-in Button Springs were lying on the cement table. We turned the burner off and removed the burner from the fuel canister to inspect the burner and the (full) Fuel Canister (propane) began to empty out - the pressure/regulator valve was not functioning correctly - it would take about 24 hours to fully empty, we could smell it slowly continue to discharge while pedaling the next day. We pack out all refuse, some of it not ours.

Above Left: Valentine's Day (14 Feb), 2012, this is as far north as we traveled for our tour in the previous year.

Above Right: 31 March, 2013, where we started this bicycle tour on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR). Our plan was to bike through the Gila National Forest's Beaverhead Work Center to Pie Town, NM. This is GDMBR Crossing #28, but the last time that we were here the Great Divide Elevation Sign was still posted (see the previous picture).

We were heavy for this trip. The temperatures were forecast to be 70sF/20sC during the day and 30F/-2C (barely freezing) at night. That forecast held up as predicted, but rather than take our 20F/-5C sleep bags (which we should have taken), we took our -40F/C bags (so yes, we slept very warmly). Each sleeping bag required its own case and rather than being able to place 2 sleeping bags and 2 bed mats in one case (our summer normal) we had a few more bags to carry, which created more travel bulk and thus we needed our trailer. Trailers slow a traveler.

Above Left: We made the 100 yard/meter trek down the paved Hwy 35 and turned north onto NF 150. No more paved road for this journey.

Above Right: We were riding parallel to the Continental Divide, NF 150, near Lake Roberts, NM (GDMBR, Gila NF). The left side of this hill drains into the Pacific Ocean and the right side drains into the Atlantic Ocean.

We were only about 300 yards/meters into the ride and the gravel on the road started to get annoying. When we turned the corner we hit a solid 2 inch (5 cm) depth of gravel and we had to push the bike for about 50 yards/meters. This effort continued, on and off, for the next 2-3 hours.

This is a HDR Processed Photo, it was the only way to dull the bright sun flair and enhance the shaded gravel road.

Above Left: Mistletoe, the yellow green stick plant in the center, is a parasite plant that is killing off many cedar trees.

Above Right: Mistletoe, the reddish colored clusters in the center of this cedar tree, is killing this tree.

Above Left: The Western/Pacific view, looking down Spirit Valley, Hwy 35, and Sapillo Creek.

Above Right: The Eastern/Atlantic view, looking towards Mimbres.

Above Left: Terry is retrieving some trail snacks.

Above Right: Riding up the gravely Spine of the Great Divide. Just before stopping to take this picture, we saw 3 wild turkey run across this road from our right to left side (no Turkey picture yet, later).

Above Left: The trunk bark pattern of 'Alligator Cedar'. As it gets older, the bark takes on the look of 1 tor 2 inch (2.5 - 5 cm) square armor plates (like the back of an Alligator).

Above Right: A little pedaling brake; see our four tire tracks across the middle of the road. In many places the gravel is evenly spread about 2 inches (5 cm) deep.

Above: This is Continental Divide crossing #27, 7,300', GDMBR: No shortage of gravel, 14 miles to go, it will take us about 4 hrs, which is incredibly slow.

We are on the actual Divide (in these pictures). Here, the Divide line proceeds up the hiking trail on the right hand side and we will follow the National Forest Road #150 to the left. The next actual crossing of the Divide will occur about 130 miles (200 k) to the North.

Above Left: A really old Cedar Tree, about 300 years, older than the United States of America.

Above Right: GDMBR, Gila NF, 31 Mar 2013: Me, practicing my 'gravel avoidance' skill and my 'car around the corner listening' skill (picture by the Stoker, Terry).

Above Left: An old horse coral (still serviceable).

Above Right: We are slowly slipping into a rugged boulder lined valley.

Above: Terry and I are stopping to take a mid morning break and trail-mix snack.

Above Left: Narrow Bridge.

Above Right: Our first notice of a wild flower.

Above Left: Beautiful Blue Sky.

Above Right: We cross a ridgeline high enough to see further ahead.

Above Left: We are reaching the end of about 13-14 miles (20-22 k) of fresh gravel.

Above Right: Finally we see natural forest road. Unfortunately, we will find gravel off and on for the next 3-4 miles.

Above Left: We're in a descent into some rough country.

Above Right: Our first sighting of water (about 15 miles into the journey). We crossed 4 or 5 of these snow melt streams. This valley is no place to be during a rain storm.

Above Left: Back view of another creek crossing.

Above Right: Side view of a creek, not a whole lot of water. There were only 3 more watering holes for the next 30 miles. We had to top off at each of those water crossings. At the moment and for today only, our packed/carried water supply is sufficient.

Above: A short lived friendly and pretty nature drive to the next valley.

Above Left: This place is called Rocky Canyon. We were realizing that this day's ride was one of the most bone-shaking rides that we have ever experienced.

Above Right: The Spoke's Chain Guard finally shatters from one too many shakes - I know exactly how it feels. We cut off the plastic and the zip ties and packed out the pieces, as trash. The Spoke Guard is a convenience, not a necessity (it protects the spokes from being filed by a chain-sprocket slip-off).

Above: Climbing out of Rocky Canyon (GDMBR, Gila NF, NM, 31 Mar 2013).

Above Left: Passing by NF Trail# 76 (cairn and new dedication sign).

Above Right: Traveling a Top-Out for a short segment. More gravel - Argh.

Above Left: Taking a little break (gravel again).

Above Right: Another gentle descent (to be followed by a much steep ascent).

Above Left: A not so old pasture area.

Above Right: A not so old water trough.

Above Left: The beginning of the descent into Black Canyon.

Above Right: A side view of Black Canyon.

Above: A side view of Black Canyon (GDMBR, Gila NF, NM, 31 Mar 2013). We're still near the top.

Above: Gentle slope descent into Black Canyon (where we will camp).

Above Left: A not so easy descent (dodging gravel areas, fallen rocks, and washboards, especially on inside curves).

Above Right: Bridge and sign for our Campsite.

Above: This area has a not so common Golden Trout (Gila Trout). There is a Dam and Spill Over area behind the displays.

Above Left: This will be home for the night.

Above Right: Black Canyon Creek will be our source for water. We are down to about 1/3 a liter/quart of water. Obtaining clean water is our first priority.

Above Left: Time to break out the water filter, Chlorine Dioxide (which goes by different names), water bottles and rolled-up bulk storage bladder. For More About Water Filters/Purifiers.

Above Right: Unrolled bulk storage bladder (still empty, about a 2 gallon/8 liter capacity).

Above: Dennis and Terry Struck taking turns on the MSR Sweet Water Filter (GDMBR, Black Canyon, Gila NF). The filter has a short (too short?) water input line which makes the operation take place next to the water, whether it is muddy or dry. One learns to select their pumping location carefully.

Above Left: Full Bladder.

Above Right: Tent (setup for the morning sun to shine on it).

Above Left: Bear Vault Food Storage. I usually mark the tree next to the Vault. Technically, Bears are still hibernating, but one can never be sure. The Vault also protects from rodents. We have haven't had a Bear problem (while cycle touring, only while backpacking); we've only had problems from mice and ground squirrels.

Above Right: I see a happy face. We use this cut bottom of a Clorox bottle as a hot water holder for personal bathing, it fits inside our small cook pot for travel.