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Portugal, Adventure #26, Page 5


Day 3, Pedal to Vila Nova de Foz Côa via N222 and many Interesting Villages

Red Douro Grapes with early turning leaves. Casa dos Leos.
Today will be a day full of weathered Castles, crumbling Fortresses, old Monasteries and former Estaçãos (Establishments-Stations) beyond their time. Also, we get to see Almond Trees/Groves.

Above Left: Terry spots another gem of a picture. Red Douro Grapes with early turning leaves.

Above Right: Casa dos Leos.

Almond tree. A distant village seen trough an Agabe plant.
Above Left: Our first good example of an Almond tree. Today we will see miles of Almond Groves and Olive trees and mixed Almond/Olive Groves.

Above Right: A distant village seen trough an Agabe plant. Not many grapes now.

Bus stop. Bus stop.
Above Left: A bus stop. Stone is becoming a common building material here.

Above Right: Another bus shelter. It's bomb proof.

Old stone structure. Agricultural zone of demarcation.
Above Left: We're near a pass. This old stone structure caught our attention.

Above Right: I know that it is sophomoric, but still. It is actually another agricultural zone of demarcation.

We pose for a picture and decide to take a snack/rest break. Terry has cooled down and is cold.
Above Left: We are traveling parallel to the Douro River about fifteen kilometers to the south. Here we will leave N222 temporarily and head toward the Douro. We pose for a picture and decide to take a snack/rest break. The weather is great; sun is out, temperature about 21°C.

Above Right: We're at the same spot, off the road. Terry has cooled down and is cold; she needs to stand in the sun. This is as cool as it ever gets.

The terrain is like the American West. The mirror helps drivers see other vehicles.
Above Left: The terrain is like the American West. It looks like an American Cattle Ranch, but we have yet to see any cattle. In fact, we will never see any cattle in our entire stay, no pigs either. We will see some sheep, but so far we have not seen any sheep.

Above Right: We're at a tight turn in a three way intersection on hill side - It's dangerous for fast moving cars. The mirror helps drivers see other vehicles in the otherwise blind spots. For us, this makes for an interesting opportunity. See if you can see the 'Bee' (name of our bike). The greenish town crest (tile on a local water trough) on the left side of the mirror is the very next picture.

Tiled water tank for Village of Custóias. Mixed Almond Trees and Olive Trees.
The Village of Custóias is on our left/west side, we are proceding to the right/east from this point. The terrain becomes such that the leeward side of the hills are arid and the windward side of the hills will support tree growth (olive & almond)

Above Left: We recognize Olives on the right side and Grapes in the middle. We try to intuit that the plant on the left is almond related, but it is more like Lavender. We never discover the answer. Anyone know? See the spigot?

Above Right: Here is a (fruit) tree grove with mixed Almond Trees and Olive Trees.

Fig tree. Old fortress.
Above Left: We stopped to have Lunch. We notice, growing on the road side (Not in a fruit tree grove), that this tree is different. Then it looks familiar. Then we realize it's a fig tree. Then we notice it has ripe figs. We are guessing that the tree likely grew from a discarded fig seed or fruit.

Above Right: Another one of those old fortresses. on a hill top. We never see the Douro River, but I bet that it can be seen on that hill top. This is as far north as we go today, now we will slowly head back (south) towards N222 and eventually enter into a very fertile valley.

Fertile valley with lots of grapes. Restaurante Quinta.
Above Left: We've travelled a few more kilometers. The temperature is such that Dennis is warm and Terry is cold. The terrain has changed again. We're in a fertile valley with lots of grapes. It is just beautiful in its self. The village in the background is where we will have a Restaurante break.

Above Right: Restaurante Quinta. I don't know the name of the village but it's at the intersection of N222 and the road that heads north to the village of Numão. This was just another roadside stop, until Dennis went to the bathroom, but I'm getting ahead of myself. This is a first class Restaurante.

Café y Leite and Chocolate Quente. happy camper.
Above Left: We were both getting cool from an exercise slow down, so Dennis ordered a Café y Leite and Terry ordered a Chocolate Quente. Pictured here.

Above Right: A happy camper (Terry).

Wait, that's a Grape Vine. Same vine growing out the outside of the Restaurante.
Above Left: The Men's Room has a built in grab bar. Wait, that's a Grape Vine. Wait, this is not joke; the grape vine is growing out of the ground and exiting out the wall, near the roof. Got to investigate.

Above Right: That's the same vine growing out the outside of the Restaurante. The proprietor was already waiting for me; he was thoroughly enjoying himself and watching my surprise as I was explaining all of this to Terry. More >>

White Grape Vine. Red Grape Vine. Mixed Red and White Grapes.
Above:
  • White Grape Vine in far Left Image.
  • Red Grape Vine in Center Image.
  • Mixed Red and White Grapes and Vine in far Right Image.

The following is what we think that the proprietor is stating:
The vine that comes out of the Men's Room is a Branco (White) Grape Vine. There are already other Rosa (Red) Vines growing beside the parking lot. They use and allow the grape vines to grow through a latticed overhead cover in the parking lot as shade [see three image rows previous], also the lattice is visible in the above images. Somehow, the White Vine graphed itself onto a Red Vine (or visa versa) and the result produced a grape bunch that has mixed Red and White grapes.
Fact: Dark Red, Black, and Blue Grapes are all considered to be in the Red Grape Family
(for viticulture purposes).

N222. Take my Picture.
Above Left: We are back on N222 heading east. We are probably viewing the ancient road that N222 replaced. Grape vines and some olive trees in the background.

Above Right: Sometimes a scene just says 'Take my Picture'.

We enjoy another downhill run. Agriturismo called Quinta Chão d'Ordem.
Above Left: We enjoy another downhill run to our place of stay. Dennis had to stop to give his brake hands a break, arh arh. Not to worry, we ride right back up, first thing the next day!

Above Right: This is our place of stay, an Agriturismo called Quinta Chão d'Ordem. The owners are many generations of family that go back to Knights Templar or Knights of Christ. This establishment used to be a way station for traveling Knights. There are ancient documents posted on the wall.

For the record, Dennis has showered and is wearing the next day's clothes for dinner tonight. Dennis is about to relocate the bike for weather protection.

Aerial photograph. Terry is joined by <i>o gato</i>.
Above Left: This is an older aerial photograph of the Quinta Chão d'Ordem, displayed in the great room (along with other significant family heirlooms and artifacts of old).

Above Right: Terry is joined by o gato in a brief break beside the dorm and pool. Terry's lap holds the pillow which holds the cat and Dennis' boot finds a way into the picture.



Day 4, Round Trip through Marça, Mós, and Pocinho

Sheep. Sign is pretty much our itinerary.
Above Left: These sheep are from Q Chão d'Ordem, they are the only sheep and domestic animals that we see for our entire 16 Day stay in Portugal. We never see any cattle.

Above Right: Well, we just climbed straight up about 5K. At the 'Y' intersection at the top of the hill we either turn left (west) for Pesqueira (where we came from yesterday), or we turn right (north) for Marça, Mós, and Pocinho. This sign is pretty much our itinerary today.

A great harvest. Grape containers.
Above Left: A great harvest is occurring. Grape bunches go from the vine into buckets. The buckets are the size that one person can carry or maneuver. The buckets are collected by little ATV's (boys with toys) or men with tractors. Then the buckets are either dumped into a vat on the back of a small truck, or middle size boxes are used for interim transportation. It takes a couple of men to load the boxes (or one Buba). We did see a couple of Bubas; they were always friendly and waved.

Above Right: Collection point with mixed sized grape containers.

Tractor load of grapes. Our Good Turn for the day.
Above Left: A Tractor takes a load of grapes to the community processing center..

Above Right: Our Good Turn for the day. See the spilled buckets at the end of the road. It is obvious that they fell off a truck on the curve. We collected them and set them at the road side. De nada.

Stoneworks, grapes, olives, and almonds. Stoneworks, grapes, olives, and almonds.
Above: Stoneworks, grapes, olives, and almonds.

Santuario of Miradouro. Santuario of Miradouro.
Above: The Santuario (Sanctuary) of Miradouro (it actually has its own name). There is a small church, a memorial area, picnic tables, parking, and some tribute monuments to the working men of the area (stone works and agriculture pieces). It is very social and harmonious in its presetation.

Miradouro. Miradouro.
Above Left: Uphill Miradouro. Notice the festive overhead street light decorations and o cão (the dog).

Above Right: Downhill Miradouro.

Hillside terracing. Marça.
Above Left: Hillside terracing.

Above Right: Marça.

Old Pigeon House. Harvest worker is delivering grape buckets.
Above Left: Old Pigeon House. This is not the best example of a Pigeon House, but these facilities were used much the same way a chicken coop would be used. When a person wants dinner, close the door, go to a nest, and select a meal. We stopped near here for lunch.

Above Right: A harvest worker is delivering grape buckets to a hillside that is too narrow for a vehicle. We are entering Mós. The village has speakers playing a kind of Portuguese Hip Hop.

The back view to Mós. Ready for a snack break.
Above Left: The back view to Mós. This is the only place in Portugal where we walked the bike up hill (for about 100 meters). If it were early in the day or cooler we could probably have pedaled all the way. We're having another 35°C day (in the 90's F) and this road has a steep segment.

Above Right: We cleared the hill top and we're ready for a snack break.

Santo Amaro. Santo Amaro.
Above Left: We're entering the village of Santo Amaro.

Above Right: A pastoral tile picture on the side of a casa in Santo Amaro.

Vila Nova de Foz Côa. A 'Century'.
Above Left: The town of Vila Nova de Foz Côa is visible across the valley on the far ridge line to the right side. We are going to coast down this near road (pictured) and follow the valley north (to our left) to the town of Pocinho which is on the Douro River. Then we will ride uphill along that far ridge line road to Foz Côa, then pedal downhill back to Quinta Chão d'Ordem. We will perform this act in two hours.

Above Right: We were 'Riding through the Centuries', what they call Olive Trees that are over 100 years old. Pretty neat, huh?

Road intersection, creek, and railroad bridge. The Estação Ferroviária.
Above Left: Road intersection, creek, and railroad bridge. To the right is Pocinho.

Above Right: The Estação Ferroviária (Railroad Station) of Pocinho.

The long climb up to Foz Côa. Where municipal street signs go to die.
Above Left: The long climb up to Foz Côa. It actually only took one hour for the climb.

Above Right: In case the reader ever wondered, this is where municipal street signs go to die (just entering Foz Côa).

A small Chapel dated 1898. A Clinic for Miserable Conditions.
Above Left: A small Chapel dated 1898.

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Best Story (Children): Within Foz Côa, while pedaling downtown on a cobblestone road; we passed by a school yard of pre-schoolers. Dennis was negotiating the cobbles so Terry saw this incident all the way through. Terry looked out and saw a Teacher pointing toward us. Some kids turned to look. Terry waved and said Olá loudly and those kids simultaneously yelled Olá and started running to the fence, waving. Then, all of the other kids in the school yard (maybe 60 in total) turned to join in. Very quickly, all the kids were hanging over a short stone wall or standing at a chain-link fence yelling Olá, Olá, Olá. We waved back and they cheered. It must have been quite a sight to see two Americano's (anyone) on a Tandem Bicycle pedaling through the town.
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Above Right: A Clinic for Miserable Conditions.


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