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South Africa - Bicycle Tour Adventure, Day 8

Pictures and Stories About Bicycle Adventures


Tandem Bicycle Tour through Lebombo Mountains,
View Lowlands and Rural Countryside of Mozambique; Enter Swaziland;
Ezulwini Valley Mlilwane Game Reserve, Siteki,
Beehive Hut; 15 Nov 2014

Photographic Highlights of the Day

What a great sense of humor this guy has.
Above: People are funny everywhere. What a great sense of humor this guy has! I hope that we get to meet again. The gentleman saw me taking their pictures and he quickly grabbed his own camera. We took pictures of each other and waved, neither one of us was in control of our vehicle. This the outskirts of Maputo, we were heading just far enough out of the city's influence to safely resume our Tandem Bike Tour.
.Dennis and Terry Struck - We were about 30km SSW out of Maputo heading for Swaziland
Above: We were about 30km SW out of Maputo heading for Swaziland.

Dennis waving backwards to Terry (taking the photo).
Above (in Swaziland): Dennis waving backwards to Terry (taking the photo); we had suited up and were ready for Mother Nature. This was quite the super cell coming at us. We're about 80km SW of Maputo and maybe 30km into Swaziland and it was getting ready to cataract. Our vehicle transport driver (already waiting for us at Siteki, Swaziland) realized that we were in a tough situation and our transport driver drove back through this storm to come get us. The action was a very welcomed rescue!
What we missed pedaling through on our tandem.
Above: What we missed pedaling through on our tandem.

Weaver Nests and Weaver Bird at Mlilwane Game Reserve.
Above: Weaver Nests and Weaver Bird at the entrance of the Mlilwane Game Reserve, Kingdom of Swaziland.

That is Terry and our Home for the Night. It is called a Beehive Hut.
Above: That is Terry and our Home for the Night. It is called a Beehive Hut.

Real live Warthogs warming up next to the campfire.
Above: Real live Warthogs warming up next to the campfire.

Local Bantu Tribesmen & Women demonstrate Dance and Song.
Above: Local Bantu Tribesmen & Women demonstrate traditional Dance and Song.

Breakfast at the Polana Hotel, Maputo, Mozambique
Then Depart Crowded Maputo (to finally Start Tandem Bicycle Touring)

Breakfast at the Polana Hotel. Breakfast at the Polana Hotel.
Above: Breakfast at the Polana Hotel.

Breakfast at the Polana Hotel. Breakfast at the Polana Hotel.
Above: Breakfast at the Polana Hotel.

A Happy Camper, Terry. The journey begins to find a spot to pedal our tandem safely.
Above Left: A Happy Camper, Terry.

Above Right: The journey begins, we just want to get out of Maputo (geographically and politically) to find a spot to pedal our tandem safely (we're not worried about the people of Mozambique).

We had to drive many kilometers. We had to drive many kilometers.
Above: We had to drive many kilometers.

Tandem Bicycle Touring in Mozambique!

Open Range Cattle is common all over southern Africa. Here it is flat, 90% humidity, 90F+/30C+.
Above Left: In our rush to get going we did not take our usual start picture. We are 25-30km SW of Maputo on N3 heading for Goba on the Fronteira (Portuguese for Border - Swaziland and Mozambique) and we must ride in the vehicle to cross the border due to Travel Manifest Laws).

Open Range Cattle is common all over southern Africa. There is always a boy (young man) around. If he is not visible, just stop biking or driving and a Cattle Guardian will magically appear.

Above Right: Here it is flat, 90% humidity, 90F+/30C+.

Common rural view: loose goats and a relatively clean property. African Lady going about her business.
Above Left: this a common view, loose goats, relatively clean property, a little garden, and a simple dwelling.

Above Right: African Lady going about her business.

Mufuiani, Mozambique. Woman carrying firewood.
Above Left: Mufuiani, Mozambique.

Above Right: Woman carrying firewood.

Munhuana River. Dennis and Terry Struck in Mozambique on a Tandem Bicycle Tour.
Above Left: Munhuana River (all waterways in Mozambique can have Crocs).

Above Right: Here we are.

Impaputo (town ahead). Boy carrying Water or Fuel.
Above Left: Impaputo (town ahead). Now we are seeing some signs of foot hills ahead.

Above Right: Boy carrying Water or Fuel.

We are on N3 heading for Goba Fronteira, 22km. A home with add-ons; I like the port window patio.
Above Left: We are on N3 heading for Goba Fronteira (the Border of Swaziland and Mozambique).

Above Right: A home with add-ons; I like the port window patio.

Goats running loose. Red dirt and crops in a field.
Above Left: Goats running loose. No one seems to be needed to watch goats, apparently they are self maintaining.

Above Right: Red dirt and crops in a field.

Nkalatchana Creek. N3 Highway Marker.
Above Left: Nkalatchana Creek.

Above Right: N3 Highway Marker (exactly the same method is used in Portugal).

Keep on peddling SW in Mozambique. Big Brahma Bull.
Above Left: Keep on peddling SW in Mozambique.

Above Right: Big Brahma Bull (I think), an obvious Indian influence.

Mixed southern African Cattle. Dogs coming.
Above Left: Mixed southern African Cattle.

Above Right: Dogs coming; I was worried but it turnd into a non issue.

A fellow cyclist gives us the thumbs up. A Lady waves, she's selling wood.
Above Left: A fellow cyclist gives us the thumbs up (they do it sideways around here).

Above Right: A Lady waves, she's selling wood.

More wood for sell. A family of Rondavels.
Above Left: More wood for sell (we are approaching the mountains). If no one is visible, someone will appear within a few seconds if you stop.

Above Right: A family of Rondavels (round huts).

A family of Rondavels. A family of Rondavels.
Above: A family of Rondavels. In some cases people are waving and/or yelling Ola or Hello. We always responded to greetings.

Thatching and Wood for sale. It is easily 95% humidity and 95F/35C at the moment.
Above Left: Enterprise! Thatching and Wood for sale.

Above Right: It is easily 95% humidity and 95F/35C at the moment.

Thatching repair material. Mafavuka Enterprise.
Above Left: Thatching repair material.

Above Right: Mafavuka Enterprise.

Young men saying Hello. Rondavel close-up.
Above Left: Young men saying Hello.

Above Right: Rondavel close-up.

We stopped for a water break. The hills and road ahead.
Above Left: We stopped for a water break.

Above Right: The hills and road ahead.

A very typical roadsidee vendor (food and drink). Young boy carrying water home.
Above Left: A very typical roadsidee vendor (food and drink). Vodaphone is the local wireless and cell phone service, their advertising is everywhere.

Above Right: Young boy carrying water home.

We are taking a water break (Terry and the Bee). Meet a friendly construction worker.
Above Left: We are taking a water break (Terry and the Bee).
The house in the background is under construction.

Above Right: Meet a friendly construction worker.

The Speed indicates 7.3 MPH, we are traveling uphill. Hills ahead, steady climbing.
Above Left: The Speed indicates 7.3 MPH, anything under 10-12 MPH indicates that we are traveling uphill. We have been on a slow climbing incline for a while

Above Right: Hills ahead, steady climbing.

Hills ahead, steady climbing. Brave man fishing in a creek's pool.
Above Left: Hills ahead, steady climbing.

Above Right: Brave man fishing in a creek's pool where crocodiles hunker down in the dry season; there are crocs here.

We are officially in the Lebombo Mountains.
Above: This a major town/village and there is no signage (common in most of Africa). We are officially in the Lebombo Mountains of Mozambique.

two little girls are dressed for church. We are climbing the Escarpment that leads to the Highlands.
Above Left: It is Sunday, these two little girls are dressed for church (standing alone on the road side), and I presume that a relative is about to pick them up for Church. We hung around about 100 meters/yards up the road and saw a van load of dressed people pick them up. It was sort of a weird experience.

Above Right: We're looking due East. The big village that we just passed is in the background. The lowland is very humid, in fact is so humid that the visibility is reduce to a grey wall. We are climbing the Escarpment that leads to the Highlands (Highveld). The temperature is dropping for us, it is only in the high 80F+/30C+ now. Notice that they have heavy rain drainage.

Ladies are heading home with firewood. We waved at two riders.
Above Left: Ladies are heading home with firewood from the forest lands into what we are now cycling.

Above Right: At first, I thought that I saw a tandem bike. We waved at two riders.

View on the N3, Mozambique hill climb. View on the N3, Mozambique hill climb.
Dennis Struck and the Bee in Mozambique. View on the N3, Mozambique hill climb.
Mozambique Flora. Mozambique Fauna.
We're making climbing progress, the view is grand. N3, 29 km (we've biked about 39km so far today).
Bags of Rocks (for sale). The Misquita Mosque.
Above Left: Bags of Rocks (for sale).

Above Right: The Misquita Mosque.

The Border of Mozambique and Swaziland. The Border of Mozambique and Swaziland.
Above: The Border of Mozambique and Swaziland.

We had arrived to the top of our hill climb, to southern Africa's Highveld, and to Swaziland all at the same time!

We are now in Swaziland!
I cannot express how much cleaner and safer the country,
Swaziland was our Positive Touring Unexpected Surprise!

Swaziland road sign and distances. life is looking pretty good right now.
Above Left: It is an African Joke said by Swazis (Bantu), that if they ever lost the letter 'M', they would lose half of their language words.

Above Right: The country is just suddenly cleaner and the roads are better, life is looking pretty good right now.

We are now pedaling in the 20s MPH. our destination posted on a sign.
Above Left: We are now pedaling in the 20s MPH - Zooming!

Above Right: This is the first time that we have seen our destination posted on a sign.

Terry Stalks a Lizard. Terry Stalks a Lizard. Terry Stalks a Lizard. Terry Stalks a Lizard. Terry Stalks a Lizard. Terry Stalks a Lizard. Terry Stalks a Lizard.
Above: My wife Terry, who creates First Class Scouts, mercilessly stalks an unsuspecting Skink with a camera. She is actually pretty good at this. We were taking a bicycle water break near a culvert.

Side view to the south of canyon vegetation. The road ahead is starting to look gloomy.
Above Left: Side view to the south of canyon vegetation, it is lush.

Above Right: The road ahead, looking westward, is starting to look gloomy. Mnay tropical places have evening thunderstorms, however unknown to us a fast moving Cape Storm front is about to pass through west to east (in less than an hour).

A nice stone masoned dwelling stands before us. We have stopped for a snack.
Above Left: A nice stone masoned dwelling stands before us.

Above Right: We have stopped for a snack (trail mix).

We take note that the cows are heading away, home? We pedaled on, after dawning our rain suits.
Above Left: We take note that the cows are heading away, home? We decided to put on our rain suits.

Above Right: We pedaled on, after dawning our rain suits. We can see the rain wall coming; it is about 200 meters/yards away.

One quick picture of Dennis suited up for rain. The storm is here.
Above Left: One quick picture of Dennis suited up for rain.

Above Right: IT'S HERE!

Our Transport Driver Jannes Recues Us!
Jannes was waiting for us just before the town of Siteki.
He Drove the Van Back Through the Storm in Case We Wanted a Rescue.

This is the storm that we missed. This is the storm that we missed.
This is the storm that we missed. This is the storm that we missed.
This is the storm that we missed. This is the storm that we missed.
Above: This is the storm that we missed while riding in the transport vehicle.

We have arrived at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary,
Siteki, Swaziland

The rain has stopped, it is still cloudy, and we have arrived at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. L-R: King (twice), the King's Mother, and the appointed Prime Minister. Ngulube (Bicycle Rider) - We never did find the meaning.
Above Left: Everywhere in Swaziland we see these images. The left two pictures are of the King, then King's Mother, and right-most is the appointed Prime Minister.

Above Right: Ngulube (Bicycle Rider) - We never did find the meaning.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. A live fence, common in villages. Mr Grimace.
Above Left: Welcome to Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Above Center: A live fence, common in villages.

Above Right: Mr Grimace.

Weaver Bird Nests. Weaver Bird.
Above Left: Weaver Bird Nests.

Above Right: Weaver Bird.

Weaver Bird Nest. Weaver Bird entering nest.
Above Left: Weaver Bird Nest.

Above Right: Weaver Bird entering nest.

That guy is an Impala. A Warthog, Impala, and a Wildebeest.
Above Left: We are heading to our lodging - That guy is an Impala.

Above Right: A Warthog, Impala, and a Wildebeest (L-R).

All About Beehive Huts!

Our Village. Our Lodge, a Beehive Hut.
Above Left: Our Village.

Above Right: Our Lodge, a Beehive Hut - They are bigger on the inside than one realizes. That is Terry stooping in the doorway.

Two Double Beds. One Queen Bed.
Above Left: Two Double Beds ... plus.

Above Right: ... One Queen Bed.

The Closet, Door Closed. The Closet, Door Opened.
Above Left: The Closet, Door Closed.

Above Right: The Closet, Door Opened.

The Roof's hut structure and thatching. structure and thatching panning down midway to the door.
Above Left: The Roof's hut structure and thatching ...

Above Right: ... panning down midway to the door.

View of the front door (closed). View of the front door (opened).
Above Left: View of the front door (closed).

Above Right: View of the front door (opened).

Beehive Hut Construction Details

Beehive Hut Under Construction. Beehive Hut Under Construction.
Above: Beehive Hut Under Construction.

Thatching Details. Thatching Details.
Above: Thatching Details.

Thatching Details. Thatching Details.

Wandering About Camp

Retired Guide Vehicles. Sometimes called an Aloe Tree.
Above Left: Retired Guide Vehicles.

Above Right: Sometimes called an Aloe Tree.

Warthog wanders about camp. Warthog wanders about camp.
Above: Warthogs (and Zebras) wander about camp.

Vervet monkeys have the run of camp. Vervet female and baby.
Above Left: Vervet monkeys have the run of camp but do not seem to be spoiled as in some areas, they just coexist with mankind.

Above Right: Vervet female and baby. It was pointed out to me that the face and hair color reverse colors with age; I just find that fascinating. I don't know where else a color reversal occurs in nature?

Sunset. Sunset.
Above: Sunset.

Sunset in Swaziland.
Above: Sunset in Swaziland. 'Red Sky at Night, Sailors Delight' is a big fat LIE!

Warthogs toasting about the campfire. Terry and our restaurant host.
Above Left: Warthogs toasting about the campfire, this is real. The air temperature is in the 60s and these guys are cold.

Above Right: Terry and our restaurant host. That is a hand carved wood elephant between them.

Open air restaurant. Dinner.
Above Left: Open air restaurant - World Famous Hippo Haunt Restaurant and Bar.

Above Right: Dinner.

Swazi Dance and Song Performance

Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.
Swazi Dance and Song Performance. Swazi Dance and Song Performance.

This was a very event filled day:
  • Cycling in the country side of Mozambique.
  • Cycling in the country side of Swaziland.
  • Dodging the violent Lightning Storm.
  • Seeing wild animals in our Camp.
  • Seeing Warthogs warming about a Camp Fire.
  • Seeing the Swazi/Bantu Dance and Song Performance.
  • Seeing and staying in a Beehive Hut.
Yes, we had a Grand Day


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